The men’s skirt can be seen everywhere in fashion shows, but is still rare in boutiques, as well as on the streets. Does she have a real chance of finding a place in the men’s locker rooms? Response elements.
” Why not ? “, Russell Westbrook likes to ask on his social networks, every time he wears a daring outfit. The basketball player, NBA star, who has become the face of several fashion brands, is sweeping away dress norms as he attacks the baskets. Without pardon. In the summer of 2021, he did not hesitate to appear with a skirt several times, which caused ridicule and encouragement. The playmaker is not an isolated case. From Formula 1 driver Lewis Hamilton to actor Brad Pitt, including singer Harry Styles: skirts, kilts and dresses take over the masculine part. American fashion magazine The cut even end 2022 by declaring it the “year of the men’s skirt”.
In parades yes, on the streets no
A few months later, skirts on hairy legs are still in fashion. At least in the world of haute couture, which breaks away from genres. The piece is ubiquitous on the catwalks of the autumn/winter collections. “In 65% of the latest fashion shows pay attention to the newspaper The echoes. Dior, Gucci, Courrèges, Marine Serre, they all do it. » In recent years, some consumer brands, such as Spain’s Zara or Germany’s Adidas, have also started to take the plunge.
However, the male skirt has no place yet on the street. “Celebrities wear them, but in media moments of representation. It never is in real life. It is a stylist who dresses her, with the desire to be noticed”recalls Marc Beaugé, editor-in-chief of L‘Label . Although Jean-Paul Gaultier has rejected the kilt since the 1980s, the skirt remains identified as women’s clothing. “You have to be able to take responsibility. Be confident and don’t worry about how others look at you. I started with the kilt because in the Western imagination it is a masculine garment. admits Romain Granger, the creator of the specialized brand made in France Under men’s skirts. If you look closely, the kilt is a traditional and codified wrap skirt. » The designer likes to point out that dresses were not the prerogative of women until the French Revolution.
A new market
If, according to Marc Beaugé, the trend is stimulated to this extent by the industry, it is also because of its commercial and image potential: “The men’s wardrobe has evolved relatively little. We wear the costume, as we wore it in the 19th centurye century. Other than the sneaker, there hasn’t been anything incredibly new. It is a special market for brands, skirts, handbags or men’s make-up. With a model you can also appear progressive and modern. Not bad. »
A story of comfort?
The versatile journalist, who particularly contributes to Mthe magazine of World, nevertheless judges that this commercial logic will not be enough to impose the product.The world of luxury is used to little followed attempts, such as suits and shorts. Conversely, Crocs or Birkenstocks, although criticized for their appearance, are very successful. “Crocs are comfortable and require no maintenance. They serve a purposethe show’s columnist analyzes Daily. In addition to the aesthetic statement, which is limited to 300 people, there must also be added value and comfort. Basketball has established itself that way. »
Comfort is exactly Romain Granger’s guess. He is based in Redon and has exclusively made skirts since 2018. Unlike the catwalks, his brand focuses on the general public, without compromising on quality. “Comfort actually comes first. When I meet potential clients, my goal is to get them to try it,” says the couturier, who emphasizes another aspect: elegance. A point that Marc Beaugé does not dispute: “The skirt can be very elegant, but also very inelegant. I’m not going to argue one way or the other, asks the specialist in good taste, who says he appreciates Thom Browne’s sober creations. On the other hand, if it’s just to showcase already wealthy brands, I’m against it”.
A hundred skirts at Hellfest
Opinions are divided in the game of predictions. Romain Granger imagines that more and more men will wear skirts. “I believe in it for several reasons: for the French production and because it is super comfortable and elegantpraises the one preparing to complete his best year since his debut. I am earning a decent salary for the first time. This year I went to Hellfest and sold about a hundred skirts this weekend. » The editor-in-chief of L‘Label seems more measured: “We have been playing with codes for a long time. I have the impression that if it were necessary, it would have already been done.”he ventures.