The latest edition of the guide focuses on the east of the capital, but highlights the vitality of the southern half of France, with Marseille in power. From neo-wine bars to reinvented country inns, at the table!
Published on November 20, 2023 at 3:00 PM
OWe know that the end of the year is approaching when the gastronomic ceremonies follow one another: after Gault et Millau, which launched its new edition at the beginning of November with the awarding of prizes and very masculine hats, here comes the Fooding guide that promises “400 addresses that make 2024”. To draw attention to all this, nothing could be more effective than handing out honorary titles and chocolate medals to raise the stakes during an awards ceremony that will take place next Monday evening. On the menu for this Polaroid of the “taste of the times” always focused on novelty: Paris and Marseille, which take home half the prices… and lots of greenery!
Bets on the fall
There are only five addresses in the capital, marking a departure from the very Paris-centric 2010s and confirming a change in focus that began in 2021. The overview emphasizes the east of the city, with the bar Kiss-proof (50, rue de Belleville, 20ᵉ), Buttes (10, rue Pradier, 19ᵉ) run by alumni of Double Dragon and Jones (awarded by the guide in 2023) and installed in the former coffee shop Capitale Belleville.
Asia is also on the menu Mom from Hanoi (39, rue de Cléry, 2ᵉ) specialized in phô and other Vietnamese dishes, as well as that Golden Horse (21, rue de la Villette, 19ᵉ), awarded in 2020, but which changed teams at the beginning of the school year while retaining its Chinese influences. Finally, the prize for best team spirit is awarded to Datil (13, rue des Gravilliers, 3ᵉ), led by Manon Fleury and its boss Laurène Barjhoux, who highlight their eco- and socially responsible practices.
Marseille too powerful
The real surprise comes mainly from the place given to Marseille, which, after two establishments on last year’s list, now has one three : Raid (2, rue Fontange, 6ᵉ), Holiday cheer (54, rue Lorette, 2ᵉ) and Renata studio (2a, Guy-Fabrestraat, 1uh). Never seen before: is the capital of Marseille now more connected since many Parisians settled there (faith of exile from Marseille in Paris)? The same phenomenon at work on the Basque coast… still present on the charts for several years.
Finally, the neo-country inn is on the rise. The award for Best Table of the Year goes to Palégrié at Henri (based in Autrans-Méaudre, in Isère) and honors the work of chef Guillaume Monjuré and sommelier Chrystel Barnier – already well known to the guide – who received awards in 2013 while based in Lyon. The restaurant then moved to a hotel in Corrençon-en-Vercors (where it had earned one star) before moving this year to an old barn where everything is cooked in a wood-fired oven. A greening of the guide is confirmed by the presence of rustic, chic hotel-restaurants in the Ardèche (Maison Ailhon) and in the Vercors (Café Brochier, in the Drôme).
Between renowned guides such as Michelin (owner of Fooding since 2020), gastro-international panoramas such as 50 Best, press selections (including ours of course!), recommendations from “lifestyle influencers” on TikTok, Instagram or applications for sharing good addresses such as Mapstr, we don’t really know where to eat anymore, sorry, give me a head! And if we appreciate the eclectic elucidation of the guide, perhaps we should look for innovation in the editorial ecosystem that has developed around it: online magazine, podcasts, newsletter… The articles proposed in the guide provide an excellent preview: Meet Noël Godin, the leading cake maker, to reflect on the political symbolism of whipped cream, or delve into the history of the art of representing XXXXXL dishes, there is something that nourishes the mind in an unexpected way.
The complete winners of Fooding 2024
Best table : Palégrié at Henri
Chrystel Barnier and Guillaume Monjuré, Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors.
Food of love : Manat
Marc Meya and Yuka Okugawa, Perpignan.
Best treat : The golden horse
Luis Andrade, Hanz Gueco, Crislaine Medina and Nadim Smair, Paris.
Best table d’hôte : Renata studio
Erika Blu, Marseille.
Dear hot man : Pluviôse
Luke Dolphin, Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
Dear Sofistroquet : Coral
Alban Chanteloup and Aymeric Velluz, Annecy.
Dear neomountain : Ailhonhuis
Clément Guernalec and Lucie Soerensen, Ailhon.
Best antidepressant : Buttes
Benoît Baud, Pierre Forest and Clément Vezat, Paris.
Best antidepressant : Ripaille
Alix Eliard, Simon Erouart, Chloé Langlais and Quentin Panabieres, Marseille.
Best finger licker : Razzia
Thomas Benayoun and Axelle Poittevin, Marseille.
Best photo : Mom from Hanoi
Tuyet Ngân Bùi and Tuan Anh Tran Luu, Paris.
Best village pub : Café Brochier
Thomas Lecluse and Valentine Mollero, Saint-Julien-en-Vercors.
Better team spirit :Datil
Manon Fleury and Laurène Barjhoux, Paris.
Dear UFO : Deed
Émilie Brichard and Gaylor Olivier, Saint-Étienne.
Best prop : Selene
Mélisande Malle, Granville.
Best author bar : Kiss resistant
Mohamad Flayfil and Ralph Samaha, Paris.
Guide to Fooding 2024, on sale from Thursday 23 November 2023, €20.